Ladakh, India - February 2026

I've travelled to India many times, but have never been to the far north region of Ladakh at high altitude and in the shadow of the world's second highest mountain K2.

My love for India is the light and the people photography. It's always been amazing for me and some of my favourite images have come from India. From Jodhpur, Delhi, Mumbai and the south in Kerala and the tea plantations central India the light has always been incredible, so I really did not know what to expect in the far northern mountains and at high altitude. I'd had many opportunities to visit this area in the summer when the weather is kind, but it's also by far the most popular time to go, so there would be a lot of tourists, and that's always put me off. I wanted to photograph it in deep mid winter but that brings it's own challenges, temperatures of minus 25, ice, snow and tough traveling conditions, so when I got the opportunity to join a small group of photographers heading there this February I jumped at the chance to see Ladakh in mid winter, even though I normally travel solo so the "group" thing would be a new experience for me. Armed with serious winter gear, such as an arctic parka, multiple merino base layers, mountain grade boots and ice crampons off I set off to join the group, and as I'm an honest chap, nothing was as I expected it to be. I expected snow, ice, freezing temperatures and snow covered monastery's and good company from like minded photographers, and in truth, got none of this.

I've flown over the Alps many a time, but nothing prepared me for the flight from Delhi into the capital of Ladakh, Leh. The Himalayas make the Alps look like toy town. Literally 40 mins flying over the most stunning mountain ranges I've ever seen. It's an incredible sight that goes on forever and my Iphone image from the left side of the plane simply does not do it justice. Truly an immense sight.

I'd heard before arriving that Leh was heavily militarised due to its proximity to Pakistan and the ongoing tensions with India, but the military presence in the city was more than I expected. Thank god I decided to leave my drone at home! It was hard enough travelling with cameras. Upon approach on the plane you have to drop the window blinds to stop people photographing the military bases from the air, and then on landing you take a bus with blacked out windows to the terminal. Serious stuff. Once in the terminal the security does not end, landing cards, questions on why you are here etc etc. It all takes awhile.

'Leh at sunset from the Japanese Stupa'

I only spent a couple of days in Leh, mainly to acclimatise to the extremely high altitude. Leh is some 4,000m / 13,500ft high and you immediately feel the height. Short of breath, a little dizzy, a slight headache etc. I avoided using altitude sickness medication unlike a lot of my group and decided to tough it out and after a couple of days it was fine.

I had no preconceived ideas about Leh, but in all honesty it's a bit of a touristy dump. The surrounding mountains are majestic but humans have managed to make the dry arrid valley in which Leh sits a bit of a mess. I would not like to spend time in Leh in the summer when it's full of tourists. Leh appears to be a scruffy town with one purpose, and thats to sell tat to tourists during the season. It was plain to see on arrival that there was going to be no snow at lower levels and only the tops of the high mountains had snow. The light was also brutal and the worst possible light for a photographer. Blindingly bright without a cloud in the sky with only the respite of dawn and dusk with softer light the only opportunity to obtain images in a nice light that would be usable, and it soon became clear that travelling in a group was going to be a big issue for me despite it being a so called "photography trip".

Now I am not going to name the Photography company I travelled with as that would be churlish, but it soon became apparent that "photography" was not the main driver of this group. The leaders of the tour did not shoot with cameras and recommended using Iphones saying "phones have come such a long way" Now this may well be true, but it's not even trying to obtain the best possible image is it? Not once where we in location at dawn to maximise the sunrise, with breakfast taking priority and us only hitting the road at around 9.30am when the good light was long gone. A similar situation also developed in the evening. When in position to shoot the sunset at Shanti Stupa the "leader" decided to move the group to a position nearer to the cars for some unknown reason. An easier departure for dinner? Who knows? I refused and stayed put at Shanti Stupa to photograph the image below. Before the light had even gone, the leader sent a helper to "come and get me" as I was delaying the groups departure for dinner. Its a photography trip and you want to leave while it's still light for dinner? What a joke, and I would never travel with a group like this again. I should really name who they are, but I will refrain.

'The view from Shanti Stupa in Leh at almost sunset'

As part of the trip we visited a number of other monasteries such as the fabulous Hemis Monastery known as the 'hidden monastery' as it cannot be seen from the valley and this helped it evade destruction from centuries. It's a very special place, and I wish I had been there in the right light to get quality images, but unfortunately I was not. However sitting here in silence for 30 mins or so was very special. It was a shame to leave as the group had a curfew to depart. I'd have happily stayed at Hemis until sunset or beyond but when you are tied to a groups schedule it is not possible. I also visited Chemrey Monastery which once again would be spectacular at sunrise, however I could only shoot this image at midday at peak sunlight brightness. Not ideal. I like the image below, it's the best I could get using strong ND filters to block some of the harsh midday light, but it would have been so much better to have been here at sunset or sunrise.

'Chemrey Monastery'

'Hemis Monastery'

We then left the Leh area to travel higher to Rumbak village in an area known for Snow Leopards. It's higher than Leh and the extra altitude was very noticeable. At 4,100m or almost 13,700ft and I think thats the highest I have ever been in my life. The village and it's Homestays are fabulously welcoming and friendly but extremely basic. They have had electric for 12 months, and have no running water or sanitation. Just a long drop trench toilet. Lovely people but really like stepping back a few hundred years in time.

The journey to Rumbak was spectacular. Massive gorges with glacial blue rivers. It would have been wonderful to photograph but the 'leaders' where chasing a snow leopard sighting so our group was not permitted to stop for images. On arrival at said Snow Leopard there must have been 250 people staring through telescopes at a poor leopards tail a mile or more away. Not my idea of a fun afternoon and I would have much preferred to photograph the spectacular river gorge on the way up.

'Home Sweet Home'

'Rumbak Village, Ladakh'

'Prayer Wheel - Rumbak Village'

'Village Life - Rumbak'

'Leopard Lady'

'Snow Leopard Territory'

'Rumbak Stupa'

After a few days with the group in Rumbak, I made the decision to exit the tour and make my way back to Delhi solo. It was a tough decision and one I did not make lightly. The lack of snow at lower levels where the monastery's are, being part of a group not putting photography as it's main priority, being restricted by a groups timetable, group leadership not being committed photographers and seemingly not really interested in photography, zero photographic discussions or mentorship and extremely harsh and unforgiving light where all contributing factors to my decision. I will also not go into too much detail but two of my group were very unpleasant travel companions which all contributed to my decision to exit the group and go solo.

Would I return to Ladakh? Maybe. If I ever do it will be solo as its easy to do even in winter which I now know with hindsight. Its an high altitude desert and the lack of snow and ice make it much easier to navigate than I was expecting. Yes it was cold, but somehow it didn't feel like it. In the sun it didn't even feel like it was freezing. At night the temperature fell but nowhere near as cold as I was expecting. India is such a wonderful country for light and photography I genuinely feel Ladakh falls short despite is amazing scenery. The light, for me, is simply too harsh and bright for the images that I enjoy taking. I may return one day, but it will certainly not be part of a 'photography' group. I'll be returning to India later in the year fingers crossed. This time to photograph Dev Deepawali "Diwali of the Gods" in Varanasi and then on to Calcutta for my first ever visit, and it will be just me and my camera this time :)