Old Delhi - February 2026

I've returned from another trip to Old Delhi and thankfully a day before the unrest in Iran effected all flights in the middle east. I love old Delhi and the Chandni Chowk area and in my opinion as someone who enjoys street photography and people portraits, it really is a magical place, especially around sunset or dawn when the light is just magical.

On this trip I stayed at the Haveli Dharampura right in the heart of Chandni Chowk. It is an award winning UNESCO Heritage building that has been restored to it's former glory right in the heart of the old town. I'd highly recommend it for anyone wanting an authentic Delhi experience although arrival and departing is not for the faint hearted. The Haveli is in the narrow alleyways of Chandni Chowk and vehicle access is impossible. So the advise is to be dropped by car at the Police Station next to the Jama Masjid Mosque and then walk through the total chaos to the Haveli down the alleyways. It is a 10 minute walk but feels longer as you are in at the deep end with all your luggage amongst the madness of Old Delhi. It is worth it though, as once you arrive it is an oasis of calm with exemplary five star service and wonderful food in their restored restaurant. Immediately outside my room was a street kitchen with a massive boombox playing Indian music very loudly. Thankfully it stopped when I was going to bed, but during the afternoon and evening it was very loud. Part of the charm of staying right in the heart of Old Delhi I guess.

'The courtyard of Haveli Dharampura in old Delhi'

Walking out in the streets at sunset is so special and one of my favourite places to photograph people. I never use the sniper technique of shooting them without chatting and asking permission. You get a far better image if the person has agreed to let you photograph them, and in my experiance and smile and a chat for 5 minutes before asking for a photo, gets you permission in 70% of the time. If they say no, no problem. Another image is a few steps away. I have genuinely never felt threatened or in danger here and 99% of people want to know who you are and where you are from. Having said that I never have anything in my pockets. Just a few rupees in my front pockets, and phone zipped away. It is incredibly busy, especially around 8 / 9pm when it feels like the entire city is out buying spices, food, lassi or whatever else the multitude of small shops are selling. Cows wander the streets, TukTuks and scooters whiz down alleyways and the air is alive with smells of curry, spices and god knows what else! But for me its magic and nowhere else comes close.

'Suits you Sir' - Chandni Chowk

'Tea To Go'

'Open All Hours'

'A walk across the Rooftops'

'Carpet Man'

'Chandni Chowk Chaos'

'Holy Man'

'Birds Eye View'

'Buddha's R Us'

'Mr. Cool'